Blade anatomy in plain language
Every Japanese shear edge is a combination of three variables: the steel hardness, the grind (convex, bevel, hybrid), and the blade profile (sword, tapered, slim). Understand these and you can predict how a shear will behave before you ever pick it up.
Grind types
| Grind | Feel | Strengths | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Convex | Smooth, silent | Slide cutting, point work, all-round salon use | Needs experienced sharpening; dents if dropped |
| Hybrid convex/bevel | Slightly firmer | Balanced feel, more forgiving for apprentices | Less glide than full convex |
| Micro-bevel | Crisp, audible | Durable, great for blunt cutting and barbering | Not ideal for refined slide or slice techniques |
Edge treatments
- Raw convex edge: Ultra-sharp, hand-finished, found on premium brands (Mizutani, Hikari). Delivers the cleanest finish but needs careful handling.
- Micro-serrated: Tiny notches near the edge grip hair to prevent slipping. Ideal for beginners or dry cutting but unsuitable for slide cutting.
- Full serration: Larger notches for heavy-duty work or wig cutting. Rare in Japanese shears used on natural hair because they can roughen cuticles.
Blade profiles
| Profile | What it looks like | Why you would choose it |
|---|---|---|
| Sword blade | Raised spine along the blade | Adds rigidity and power for scissor-over-comb and thick hair |
| Tapered blade | Slim tip, thicker base | Versatile control for salon work, easy detail access |
| Wide blade | Broad from heel to tip | Stability for blunt lines, good for beginners |
| Slim precision blade | Narrow, delicate | Detail and fringe work, dry cutting on fine hair |
Matching blades to techniques
- Slide cutting / internal layering: Full convex edges with soft closing action (Hikari Phoenix, Mizutani ACRO).
- Blunt bobs / solid lines: Micro-bevel or hybrid edges add tactile feedback and resist pushing.
- Barber tapers: Sword blades with hybrid edges (Fuji MoreZ GGF, Joewell ZII) offer power without flex.
- Texturising / dry detailing: Convex edges with slimmer tips keep hair from catching.
- Training environments: Serrated or micro-bevel blades help apprentices control the hair while they develop technique.
Steel and edge retention
- VG-10 / VG-10W: Holds a convex edge well but still forgiving to sharpen.
- ATS-314 (cobalt): Supports razor-thin convex edges and resists corrosion; common in Yasaka, Yamato.
- Nano Powder Metal: Extreme hardness for flagship lines; keeps a surgical edge for months.
- 440C: Softer entry-level steel; expect shorter edge life and rely on micro-serrations for grip.
Maintenance implications
- Convex edges should only visit sharpeners trained in Japanese hollow grinding.
- Micro-serrated blades need sharpeners who can recreate the pattern-ask before handing them over.
- After each service, wipe, disinfect, and oil; even the best edge will fail if debris sits on the blade.
Buying checklist
- Clarify your cutting style. Heavy blunt work? Pick a hybrid or micro-bevel edge. Live on slide cutting? Go convex.
- Ask about the primary grind. Retailers should tell you if the blade is convex, hybrid, or micro-bevel.
- Handle the shear. Blade profile affects balance. Sword blades feel front-heavy; tapered blades feel neutral.
- Confirm sharpening support. Premium edges need premium service. Ensure someone local can maintain your grind.
Final takeaway
There is no universal “best” blade-only the one that fits your technique, workload, and maintenance discipline. Learn the terminology, match the edge to the task, and treat every shear like a precision instrument.