Why dull matters
Blunt shears chew through hair, stress your hands, and shorten the lifespan of your investment. Before you panic-buy a new pair, run through these tests to confirm whether your blades simply need maintenance or if the steel is failing.
Quick diagnostic checklist
| Symptom | What it means | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Hair bends or folds instead of cutting | Edge has rolled or tension is too loose | Clean, oil, and adjust tension. If issue persists, book sharpening. |
| Audible crunching or squeaking | Debris in pivot or burrs on edge | Clean thoroughly, oil, and inspect for nicks; sharpen if sound stays. |
| Strands snag near the tip | Tip alignment off or micro-chips present | Check screw tension and alignment. A professional tune-up may be needed. |
| Handles need extra force | Over-tightened pivot or damaged edge | Reset tension; if still stiff, send for servicing. |
How to test
- Visual inspection: Under bright light, look for reflections along the edge. A shiny line usually means the edge is rolled dull.
- Dry tissue test: Cut a strip of tissue. Clean slices indicate a healthy edge; tearing means it is time for sharpening.
- Section test: Cut a small section of clean, dry hair. If the hair slides or bends, address tension or book a service.
- Tip check: Cut thin foil with the top third of the blade. Snagging or folding suggests the tips need attention.
When to sharpen vs. when to replace
- Sharpen when: the steel is high quality (VG-10, ATS-314, cobalt), there are no deep chips, and the shear has not been dropped hard enough to warp the blade.
- Replace when: the blades have been ground heavily multiple times, you see cracks near the pivot, or the steel is a soft training alloy no longer holds an edge.
Extending edge life
- Wipe blades with a soft cloth after every client.
- Oil the pivot daily-one drop on the screw, open and close, then wipe the excess.
- Store shears in a padded sleeve away from combs, clips, and clippers.
- Avoid cutting anything except hair (no foil highlighting, no extensions with adhesive, no bandages).
- Schedule sharpening before the edge is completely blunt; 6-12 months is typical depending on usage.
Working with sharpeners
- Choose technicians experienced with Japanese convex edges.
- Share the brand and steel type so they can set the correct angle.
- Ask for alignment and tension checks along with sharpening.
- Inspect the blades immediately after service. They should close smoothly without gaps or clicks.
Emergency fixes between clients
- Light tension tweak: Tighten the screw a quarter turn to stop folding mid-shift, but remember to reset later.
- Pivot clean: Use a blower or brush to remove hair trapped near the screw, then re-oil.
- Temporary swap: Keep a serviced backup shear so you are not forced to finish the day with a dull edge.
Final thought
Dull shears are rarely the end of the road. Regular cleaning, tension checks, and timely servicing keep Japanese blades performing for years. Build a maintenance log, treat your shears like surgical tools, and you will spend more time focused on the cut-not fighting your equipment.